Decoding Suit Fabrics

Picking out fabrics is one of the most crucial aspects in customizing your suit. The suit’s completeness and overall fit depend on precise measurements of your body but when choosing the right fabric depends on other variables such as the type of event, weather, and your lifestyle. This section is determined to decode the suit fabrics and understand certain terminology on textiles.

Men’s suits have always been created using wool or cashmere wool for hundreds of years. This textile is a versatile material that can keep its shape and can be woven and spun to be made into a lightweight and breathable material that is adaptable to varying climates. Worsted wool, a fabric that most suits are also made, undergoes a final process to give its exterior a shiny and smooth appearance.

Cashmere wool, usually simply known as cashmere, is a fiber obtained from Cashmere goats and other types of goat. Common usage defines the fiber as a wool but in fact it is a hair, and this is what gives it its unique characteristics as compared to sheep's wool. The word cashmere derives from an old spelling of Kashmir. Cashmere is fine in texture, strong, light, and soft. Garments made from it provide excellent insulation.

Wool and cashmere are often blended into combined fabrics, and with the higher proportion of cashmere giving the cloth a softer and more luxurious finish fabric that allows for more breathable wear.

When it comes to fineness, it is determined based on its thread count. The “Super” prefix together with the thread count determines the number of woven threads in a given cloth per square inch. The thread count is essential because it determines the fabric’s strength and softness. Basically, the higher the thread count, the softer and silkier the fabric feels, the better its silhouette will be. Thread counts from 100 up to 180 are those that are deemed more luxurious. Yarns that are finer, softer, and appear smoother are made into fabrics that are more lightweight. However, the downside is it’s more susceptible to creasing, wear and tear, and can be very costly. So a suiting in Super 100s would be just fine to work with for everyday suits. If you prefer a more luxurious or smoother suit, a higher number would be preferable but should best be reserved for special occasions such as Super 120s and up. In terms of weight, fabric is measured either by ounces per square yard or grams per square meter.

Generally, suitings that are ideal for fall, spring and summer in the Northern area range between 10 to 12 ounces which are considered heavier fabrics. Fabrics that are ideal for hotter summers are lighter in material and are often referred to as tropical wool with 7 ½ to 9 ounces. Fabrics that are ideal for winters are tweed and flannel with at least 14 ounces.