Men’s trousers are often misunderstood for many terms associated with it but mainly because finding one that’s a perfect fit is like finding a needle in a haystack. Without it, your shirt-tie-blazer look remains incomplete. Thus it is necessary to understand the purpose of trousers and all the other options on how you choose the perfect one for you.
The Purpose of Trousers
Trousers may not the be-all and end-all of your outfit, but a well-coordinated attire will not be complete without good fitting trousers. It should complement and provide continuity with your shirt and jacket or blazer. And perfect fitting trousers flatter the wearer’s body with a smooth silhouette no matter what the wearer is doing. Trousers are not only necessary to complete your outfit, tailor made trouser pockets also help store your small yet important items, such as car keys, mobile phone, or wallet without the bulge.
Men’s Trouser Fit
The perfect fit of a man’s trousers must naturally follow his shape. This means the waist is its widest part with no loose fabric along the legs down to the ankle area. Trousers should be tapered along the legs yet remain a bit loose for ease of movement and prevent the fabric from getting too wrinkled or bunch at the thigh area. Dress trousers should have a consistent tapering from the waist down to the ankles.
Unlike the jeans where you can wear around the hips, the fall or the distance from waist to the trousers’ crotch is longer thus the trousers must be worn a bit higher on the wearer’s body. Perfect-fitted trousers stay put even without the use of a belt. The trousers are commonly tailored for suspenders and in this instance the distance from waist to crotch becomes significantly longer giving the trousers a looser fit. This enables the trousers to hang on the wearer’s body providing a flat draping. Stylish men choose to have suspenders instead of belts or wear trousers without belt loops. If you’re unsure about the fit of the trousers, try wearing one without any belt or suspenders. If the trousers continue to slip, it’s not a good fit and if there’s any billowing, it’s too loose. Remember, wrinkling and bunching when you move about signal that the trousers are ill-fitting and too tight.
Trouser Styles: Flat-front or Pleated
In the world of menswear, the verdict is still up in the air when it comes to pleated trousers as designers and fashion trendsetters are finicky about its role. In spite of this, it is necessary to understand the importance of their presence in trousers and while fashion trends constantly change, the function of trouser pleats remains constant.
Pleats may be multiple folds in the cloth held in place by stitching. When it comes to pleated trousers, they may look like lines running along the waist area and at the crotch.
The small fabric folds allow the trousers to have some flexibility as it stretches when the wearer moves around. One fold on either side of the trousers is the standard however double folds or pleats on both sides give maximum flex to the fabric providing more room for movement which is good news for men with wider legs. The pleats are also good indicators of fit, such as if the pleats open when the wearer is standing, the pleats may be tight at the thigh area. The pleats should only open when the wearer is seated or stretches his leg. Pleated trousers may be the solution in getting more comfortable trousers but flat-front trousers can offer some advantages as well. Flat-front trousers have smoother and narrower front than pleated trousers when the wearer is merely standing and immobile. Flat-front trousers benefit mostly tall and slim gentlemen since extra fabric at the hips area do tend to make the trousers look bigger. However, pleated trousers are the best option they have in getting both comfort and good fit.
Most trousers have bands at the bottom of the ankles. The cuffs are not a necessary part of the trousers, however, much like the pleated trousers, it could be a good option for men as well should they choose it. The cuffs can add some weight to the trousers that pulls down the bottom to prevent billowing. A sign of good fit is when the cuffs touch the top front and rest at the back of the wearer’s shoe. Trouser cuffs shorten the impression of the wearer’s legs making the upper body as well as the face stand out better.
Shorter men should avoid using trouser cuffs for obvious reasons, while most men actually find it more appealing without trouser cuffs. Uncuffed trousers are cut a bit lower at the back than the front as this helps the trousers to have a nice clean drape to avoid any billowing. However trousers without cuffs do have a slight disadvantage with its limited lifespan. Cuffed trousers prove to be more durable as the cuffs can easily be altered by a tailor to keep the wear and tear hidden without the need to alter the rest of the trousers.
To keep the look balanced, pleated trousers are always designed with cuffs, while flat-front trousers are mostly uncuffed. Disregarding these guidelines doesn’t mean you’re committing a fashion faux pas, however disregarding these standards can lead to unwanted and negative attention, which is exactly what you do not want when wearing tailored trousers.
The standard style for trousers is a slit pocket with little or no hemming. This style intends to keep the pockets less visible. Slanted pockets are considered a bit casual with a unique hemming while flap pockets and scoop pockets are never added in dress trousers.
Horizontal slit back pockets are added to the trousers. Several adornments such as buttons or flaps are avoided in dress trousers at it appeals as more casual and avoiding these adornments gives a nice smooth draping at the back of the trousers which makes sitting down more enjoyable and comfortable. Of course it helps if men keep the pockets free of any items. Pockets filled with items tend to bulge even if it’s well-tailored.
Fabrics for Men’s Trousers
Men’s trousers are usually made from wool or woolen blends with grey flannels as example of an enduring classic. Its color works well with your entire wardrobe and the fabric remains comfortable and cool throughout summer while it keeps you warm during winter. Navy and grey are staple colors with similar formalities, but earth tones such as khaki and brown are recognized as casual wear. Trousers in black are not usually worn as a separate piece to match with other garments as it has the tendency to keep the observer’s attention away from the colored shirt or jacket. Fabrics with a heavier weight may have a smoother silhouette and keep the trousers from billowing yet they also have the tendency to be uncomfortable during the summer months.
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