A Closer Look at Mens Suit Jacket
In understanding the basics of men’s suits, it helps to take a detailed look at the suit jacket. It’s fully customizable elements are necessary to take note to ensure the suit jacket fits the wearer and highlights the person’s flattering features.
The Choice: Single-Breasted or Double-Breasted Suits
The suit jacket can be made according to your preference, which may either be a single- or double-breasted. While a single-breasted suit has one set of buttons with the flaps of the jacket overlapping just a bit to allow for fastening, the double-breasted has buttons set on two rows that enable the flaps to overlap significantly. Getting either a single- or double-breasted suit is really a personal choice. But for majority of the suit-wearing American, the single-breasted suit reigns supreme than the double-breasted. The single-breasted suit’s popularity with American men may count for its practicality and easy wear. While the double-breasted suit may seem more fashionable due to its design, it may not be flattering for everyone as a double-breasted suit can tend to look too bulky at the torso area for an already short and portly gentleman. But if tailored properly according to the wearer’s specific measurements, the double-breasted suit can indeed make you look fashionable. And it takes an experienced tailor to pull off a great fitting double-breasted suit.
The Fit of the Shoulders
The intention of the suit jacket is to fit well enough that it flatters the wearer’s face. It should frame the face and concentrate the observer’s attention towards the face as complemented by an equally attractive shirt and tie. The shoulder width is an essential part in framing the upper portion of the torso, which includes the head. The disadvantage of heavily padded shoulders is it makes the neck and head area look a lot smaller. Meanwhile, if you make the shoulders too narrow it can make your head appear bigger than it actually is. The key is proportion. The fit of the shoulders should remain natural with a slightly sloping angle and a little bit of padding for structure. You can opt for more shoulder padding for slightly squared shoulders to provide an illusion of a taller silhouette.
The Lapels
The lapels of the suit jacket are significant because it helps keep the look of the jacket balanced. It is directly attached to the shoulders and collar to give way to where the buttons are strategically placed. The width of the lapels is probably the most contested part of the suit jacket. Over the years fashion has witnessed various sizes of the lapels, from its narrowest size during the fifties to its extremely wide fashion during the seventies. However, today the lapels are now made in a more conservative width, a testament to timeless fashion.
Lapels are made in 3 different styles, apart from its varying widths:
The timeless suit styles are the notched and peaked lapels, but the peaked style is a standard in double-breasted suits. The shawl lapel is mostly used in formal wear. So if you’re looking into a more traditional suit style, stick with the notched and peaked lapels.
The Waist Buttons
The waist buttons are strategically placed at the end of the lapels. The rows of either 1 or 2 buttons depend on the style of the suit, whether it is a single-breasted or double-breasted suit jacket. A single-breasted suit can have 1 row of buttons, comprising with 1 to 4 buttons. A jacket with 1 button is basically designed for the tuxedo. The standard number of waist buttons would be 2 or 3. A 3-button suit jacket is a classic take on the riding jackets of the British, which gives an illusion of extra height when worn correctly. It is usually the middle one that is buttoned up especially when standing. The first 2 buttons at the top may also be buttoned up for a more formal approach. The 2-button suits nowadays are the most popular style due to its slimming effect where the shirt and tie get more exposure. Make sure to keep the bottom button unfastened especially when sitting down.
Compared to the other styles, a 4-button suit jacket is uncommon but can be a stylish alternative for someone who is quite tall like a basketball player. With the height factor, a tall man wearing a 4-button suit can look similar to a short man wearing a 3-button jacket. Tall and lanky professional athletes often wear 4-button suits in colorful and loud patterns with all 4 buttons worn fastened. But for a truly stylish gentleman, keep it in a classic 2- or 3-button style.
As for a double-breasted jacket, having 4 or 6 buttons on each side is the standard. If the jacket has 6 buttons, of the last 4 buttons, only 2 should be fastened given the suit’s design. The double-breasted suit has an additional button hidden outside the flap on reverse side where the extra flap should be attached to. Keep in mind that the double-breasted suit is always fastened when standing up and not just when one is seated. The double-breasted suit’s working buttons should be fastened as well, unlike the single-breasted suit which has the last button unfastened all the time. In terms of height, the waist buttons can be also adjusted accordingly alongside the lapel gorge.
The Length of the Jacket
The suit jacket’s length highly depends on all the variables mentioned above. A suit jacket that is cut too short may show unflattering areas of the wearer’s body. Cut it too long and it might look too big, like the wearer has on a sack of potatoes. Trends are leaning toward a lower gorge with also a lower waist buttons on the suit jacket resulting in a jacket that is longer than usual because men nowadays prefer to wear their trousers around the hips as opposed to the waist area.
The Fit Matters
The suit jacket’s fit matters above everything else. An appropriate fit would allow the suit jacket with the waist button approximately below the real waist of the wearer. It should also allow at least 1 inch of the shirt cuff of the wearer to be exposed. One simple way to check for the appropriate length of the jacket is when the hem of the suit jacket just reaches your fingers, however if you curl your fingers and the hem bunches up or touches your curled fingers then you know the suit is a bit long. Another way to check for the right jacket length is to take the measurements from top of the wearer’s spine all the way to the floor, then simply divide in half. Bear in mind, the results of these techniques can still vary depending on your variables. However, both are good techniques when measuring a suit that is perhaps off the rack while a custom made suit will need a more precise measurement. In this regard, the sleeves of the jacket should also fit properly depending on the correct arm measurement of the wearer. Take note that the sleeves should never flare around the wearer’s hand. In addition, the jacket cuffs should enable the wearer some movement and therefore the width should be measured correctly for the wearer to freely move his arms.
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The Significance of Having the Right Fit in Menswear
Contrary to what people believe, men's clothing must be comfortable all the time.
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Proportion Matters in Men’s Classic Tailored Clothing
The gentleman who is careful about clothing and style should also be in control of what looks good on him and his body’s proportions.
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Tips in Wearing the Navy Blazer
It’s no secret that the navy blue blazer is a versatile garment that every man should own.
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Suits 101: Basic Guide for Men
The pinnacle in men’s fashion is defined by one glorious perfectly fitting custom suit.
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A Closer Look at Men’s Suit Jacket
In understanding the basics of men’s suits, it helps to take a detailed look at the suit jacket.
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After introducing the basics of the suit jacket, the next logical step is to discuss important details of the suit jacket in its finished form.
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Adding patterns in your wardrobe will give your suits a much needed variety and flare on an otherwise simple collection.
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Picking out fabrics is one of the most crucial aspects in customizing your suit.
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Getting to Know the Double-Breasted Suit Jacket
The jacket’s collar and lapels are its 2 distinguishing features to be recognized as such.
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Wearing the 2-piece Vested Suit
The unique appeal of a three-piece suit lends a stylish touch to any man’s suit collection. Individuality and your style can stand out in a crowd by including a vest or waistcoat.
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Of all the details in a man’s suit, color is the first thing you notice. You never get another chance for a first impression, therefore choosing the right color for your suit should be taken seriously.
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A Closer Look at Men’s Charcoal Grey Suit
Charcoal grey suit is the most popular choice of color for men’s suits in retail. This color has become the universal color in business.
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The formality of business wear relies on 2 classic suit colors – charcoal grey and navy blue.
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The black suit in wool is an important addition to men’s fashion. Its formality is unquestioned in most events albeit a bit somber with its dark color.
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Light Colored Suits in Tan, Khaki & Taupe
Fashion designers usually refer different terms for just one color or vice versa. This section defines light colors for men’s suits.
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Light Grey: A Classic Suit Color for Men
Men’s suits are made predominantly in dark colors. While it is common knowledge that dark suits are formal and paired easily with various shirt colors and ties.
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Importance of Wearing the Sport Coat
With the flexibility in the office dress code, fewer men now wear a suit and tie to work, yet appearances still matter as people are quick to judge someone by their choice of clothing in the office.
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For those times when you wish to wear something stylish to a social gathering without looking too stuffy in a suit, a sport coat can provide you both style and comfort.
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The Difference between a Sports Jacket and Suit Jacket
There is a general confusion on what a sport jacket is and how different it is from a suit jacket. It was a confusion that spanned for more than fifty years.
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Tips in Wearing the Navy Blazer
It’s no secret that the navy blue blazer is a versatile garment that every man should own.
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Basic Guide to Understanding Trousers
Men’s trousers are often misunderstood for many terms associated with it but mainly because finding one that’s a perfect fit is like finding a needle in a haystack.
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Wearing Timeless Grey Flannels with a Sport Coat or Blazer
Trousers are not the main focus of a gentleman’s outfit, instead it should briefly grab attention towards your jacket or shoes.
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Men’s Basic Guide in Wearing Vests and Waistcoats
The origins of men’s vests and waistcoats started as a piece of men’s functional outerwear.
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Getting to Know the Dress Shirt
The characteristics of the dress shirt rely primarily on 3 things: front buttons, collar, and long sleeves.
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In-Depth Look at Custom Shirts
There are several details that go through before completing men’s dress shirt and taking notice of this can provide greater results. This section provides the dress shirt’s construction and design.
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Men’s Guide to Dress Shirt Cuffs
Men’s dress shirt cuffs may be an essential part of the wardrobe, apart from the collar. The shirt cuffs are the most exposed parts when a coat is worn.
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Shirt collars can be made available in various colors, styles, and sizes. However, there is always one common goal when custom fitting shirt collars – that is to frame the wearer’s face.
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Men’s Basic Guide to Shirt Fabrics
Shirt fabrics for tailoring come in a variety of colors and textures. The most popular shirt fabric is cotton and fabrics are mostly named according to its weave method.
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Understanding Men’s Seasonal Dress Shirts
A man’s basic features may be the prevailing factors in what colors look good on a man, however, they are not the be-all and end-all in what every stylish man should understand.
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Understanding Choice of Color and Contrast in Men’s Dress Shirts
Color is the first thing anyone sees when it comes to a man’s dress shirt. In a roomful of men clad in suits, the color of your shirt may be the one to get you the attention you need or one you can simply wear to blend in.
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Discovering the Perfect Tie for Men
A man’s tie plays an essential part in completing his suit, and discovering the perfect one to match can be challenging.
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3 Factors in Choosing Men’s Ties
If you’re wearing a suit, the necktie can provide more flare to your outfit. Suits are usually made in classic colors such as black, grey, navy and dress shirts are made usually in white and blue, a man’s neckwear can emphasize the suit’s color and pattern.
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Matching Tie Knot with Shirt Collar
There is a certain technique in selecting the tie knot that works for your attire. What you need to do is simply coordinate the tie knot and the shape of the shirt’s collar.
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Matching Men’s Ties with Colors and Patterns of Dress Shirts
One of the difficult things a man may face when coordinating his outfit is matching his tie with the rest of his wardrobe.
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With the numerous options for men’s accessories, the pocket square or handkerchief on the breast pocket of the jacket remains a mystery few have ever deciphered.
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The Art of Folding Men’s Pocket Square
Men’s pocket square is considered an art itself that takes a while to master.
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The Variety of Pocket Squares in Colors & Patterns
Men’s pocket squares are made in colorful designs and patterns that are acceptable to a variety of suits.
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Things to Consider in Wearing Men’s Jewelry
Wearing appropriate men’s jewelry with a suit can make you appear from someone decent to someone dazzling.
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Not a lot of men wear suspenders nowadays, however the leather belt is both an essential and practical item of clothing.
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Men naturally grab for something to keep them warm when the temperature drops. The favored clothing for a tailored man during this time is the overcoat which is usually a knee-length jacket made in a heavy fabric.
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The Importance of Men’s Dress Shoes
If you want to be sure of a man’s style, all you need to do is look at his shoes. Taking care of one’s body is just as important as dressing your feet in well-fitting dress shoes.
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Dress shoes for men are made in various styles and each one has its purpose.
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Groom’s Dressing: Wedding Guide for Men
Your wedding day is the most important day of your life, so it should be fitting to be well-dressed as well.
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Dressing Up for Graduate School Interviews
An interview in graduate school is not the same as interviewing for a regular job post.
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Dressing for Law School & Legal Job Interview
This section discusses on how to dress properly for an interview in law school.
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Dressing Sharply for the Medical Interview
Various companies differ in their dress codes and can often have different levels of formality as well depending on the circumstances as even surgeons don’t wear their sterile scrub suits.
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Dressing Professionally for the Engineering Job Interview
Engineering is a broad term to connote that it is applicable to various jobs from digging holes to computerized processes.
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Black Tie Dressing: The Proper Way to Wear the Tuxedo
In men’s fashion, the black tie remains the most misunderstood.
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The Importance of Purchasing Custom Menswear Online
Shopping online today has become more accessible with flexible return policies and affordable shipping costs.
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The Difference Between Fused Suits & Canvassed Suits
Every stylish man should wear a custom suit and we believe that all men will need tailored suits for formal wear such as weddings or interviews or as anywhere life demands us.
